Apocalypse Soon

**carregwen** · #11 (**permalink**) 28-05-2008, 22:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tawny

I use the same software, il have to try using smooth compressor as have'nt tried that yet.
Do you start with the original exposure at -0- and then do 2 at +1 & -1? or different exposures, always been a bit confused with this.
I agree with getting the tonal range right and not make the image look OTT but i still dont feel i get that HDR effect.

I do 1 at 0, another at +2, and a third at -2. If you only do =/-1 I think you don't get enough tonal range. You will get slightly more detail (I've tested it) if you have three seperate exposures taken with the camera (using bracketing), but obviously that rules out anything moving, and is only really suitable for buildings etc. I do everything in TIFFs - the RAW outputs, and the final file. 16bit may be better to avoid colour banding, which may be a particular problem in HDR.

Are you on the latest version (3.3) it's a free upgrade and has a lot of new features. Also try some of the 'colour filters' on the mapping screen - there are new ones in V3.3.

**Tawny** · #12 (**permalink**) 29-05-2008, 15:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by carregwen

I do 1 at 0, another at +2, and a third at -2. If you only do =/-1 I think you don't get enough tonal range. You will get slightly more detail (I've tested it) if you have three seperate exposures taken with the camera (using bracketing), but obviously that rules out anything moving, and is only really suitable for buildings etc. I do everything in TIFFs - the RAW outputs, and the final file. 16bit may be better to avoid colour banding, which may be a particular problem in HDR.

Are you on the latest version (3.3) it's a free upgrade and has a lot of new features. Also try some of the 'colour filters' on the mapping screen - there are new ones in V3.3.

Thanks Rob, have now updated my version, and crickey! there are some great additions to the software to use,thanks for the tip on exposures, now its time to put it in pracise.